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| Imperial Palace, GuGong (Forbidden City, Zijincheng) No visit to Beijing can be complete without seeing this preserved Chinese classical architecture of imperial splendor, a site which is considered not only an imperial city but also an imperial museum, hence also called the Palace Museum. Another name, The Forbidden City, is so-called because it was forbidden for the commoner to enter the compound on pain of death. It was also forbidden for any building in Beijing to be constructed higher then the buildings in the Forbidden City. The yellow color of the tiled roofs could not be used by commoners. The Forbidden City was started in the Mongol Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368) and was built anew by the Ming Dynasty Yongle Emperor in 1406, and completed in 1420. In 1644, it was sacked by the Manchu troops under Doergun, who overthrew the Ming Dynasty. The succeeding Qing Dynasty Shunzi, Kangxi and Yongzhen Emperors restored the buildings, and it was further renovated to its unique beauty by the Qianlong Emperor. The Forbidden City was the residence for 24 Ming and Qing emperors. A full description will take a whole book, so I will only feature the important points. The walled area of the Forbidden City serves as the residence and office of the Imperial family and their household staffs, as well as the offices of the ministers and favored officials. The whole compound has some nine thousand rooms capable of housing the imperial family, administrators, eunuchs, maids and soldiers. The population numbered some 9000 women and 100,000 eunuchs at the end of the Ming Dynasty, and 300 plus women and 2000 odd eunuchs in the Qing Dynasty. Most structures are of wood, and hence prone to fire. The foundation is of stone and the roofs of yellow glazed tiles. The city is surrounded at its boundary by a ten meter high red wall and a fifty meter wide moat. An exemption to imperial yellow tiling was for the library where the tiles were black to symbolize water and capable of suppressing fire. Each imperial door has nine rows of nine knobs, a total of 81, as an imperial designation that the number nine is an imperial number. The dragons all have five claws to as an imperial symbol. Commoners using the nine knobs and the five dragon claws faced execution. The layout of the Forbidden City with its six main axial buildings is very simple. The front is the southern entrance and one enters the main attractions facing northwards. On a north-south axis, the compound is divided into two complexes, the southern outer courtyard with three principal halls (Taihedian, Zhonghedian and Baohedian), and northern inner courtyard of another three main buildings made up of two palaces and one hall (Qiangonggong, Jiaotaidian, Kunnunggong). The administrative area is the larger southern outer sector and the private quarters are to the smaller northern inner sector. Secondary halls and palaces are to both sides of this central axis. The Forbidden Palace starts at Tiananmen passing northwards to Wumen or Meridian Gate, a giant gate with five pavillions guarding the main entrance to the compound. Wumen, also known as the Gate of Five Phoenixes, has played an important site in Ming and Qing history. It was the site of official imperial announcements of the Chinese calendar, the inspections of troops by the Emperor and the execution or pardon of prisoners at his behest. The Wumen has three doors, the central one only for the Emperor, the Empress (if in a sedan) as well as once in a lifetime for the top three scholars of the imperial exam. Immediately past the Wumen, are five marble bridges over a small stream called the Gold Water Steam (Jinshuihe) leading to a large outer courtyard guarded by a smaller gateway, the Taihemen, at the entrance of its corresponding Taihedian. The Tiahedian and following two halls are each guarded at the entrance by a gate of the same name. These gates (Taihemen, Zhonghemen and Baohemen) are thus followed by their corresponding halls, viz. Taihedian, Zhonghedian and Baohedian. The Hall of Supreme Harmony (Taihedian) is the tallest and largest of the buildings for the most important imperial banquets and ceremonies, such as the ascendance to the throne, the First day of the New Year, the Winter Solstice and the Emperor's Birthday. Prior to the Qianlong period, it was also where the imperial exams were held and the results announced. The hall has a raised golden lacquered throne between two dragon decorated pillars and under a sphere hanging form a colorful carved ceiling. A nine dragon screen behind the throne symbolizes longevity and the unity of heaven and earth. Standing at the base are two elephants of peace. One can see gargoyles of dragon and tortoise parts, said to show immortality and longevity. A grain measure and a sundial reflect on imperial justice and righteousness while a large gold plated copper cauldron was filled with water to be used for any fire. Bronze tripods were for incense and cranes again indicate longevity. Further north is the smallest hall called Hall of Central Harmony (Zhonghedian) where the Emperor made his private preparations in donning his regalia before proceeding to Taihedian. This was also where the Emperor inspected the grain for annual planting, communicate with his entire family, (sometimes including his numerous concubines) and receiving foreign dignitaries. Beyond Zhonghedian is the Hall of Preserving Harmony (Baohedian) for smaller banquets and ceremony, and for imperial exams during and after the Qianlong Emperor. The successful candidates were awarded the Jinshi or scholar title. The rooms have been converted as a museum to display the Imperial treasures and gifts from foreign rulers. The famous Flying Horse of Gansu (Wuwei) discovered in 1969 was displayed here, but is now in the Gansu Provincial Museum in Lanzhou. At the back of the hall is a block of Ming marble carved into steps with dragon design and given the name "Dragon Pavement". Still proceeding northwards one then enters the Palace of Heavenly Purity (Qiangqinggong) through the Gate of Heavenly Purity (Qianqingmen). This was the residence of the Ming and early Qing Emperors. This was where the last Ming Emperor killed his young daughter and his concubines before hanging himself at Coal Hill. In front of this palace are bronze tortoises and cranes, a grain measure and a sundial. At the door is a tablet with calligraphy words "Sincerity and Openness" by the Sunzhi Emperor who abdicated in favor of Kangxi to be a Buddhist monk. The throne is again accompanied by a dragon screen behind it, and the ceiling is spectacular. This building was last used for the marriage celebration of Henry Puyi in 1922. Further north of the Qianqinggong is Jiaotaidian (Hall of Union) with its beautiful ceiling and the twenty-five imperial seals of the Qianlong Emperor and a chiming clock and a clepsydra or water clock. (The Chinese had invented their own clepsydra prior to the Song Dynasty). After Jiaotaidian is Kunninggong (Palace of Earthly Tranquility) where the Ming Empresses lived. This was where the last Ming Empress hanged herself. It was converted to a Qing sacrificial chamber but became the bridal chamber of Henry Puyi with the double character xi to indicate happiness and fertility. To east of Taihemen is Hall of Literary Glory (Wenyuandian) previously house of Ming crown prince but converted to a meeting place for the emperor and his scholars. During the Qianlong period it was made into the imperial library of 36,000 volumes. To west of Taihemen is Hall of Martial Spirit (Wuyingdian) initially for Ming Emperors to rest during fasting period. It became headquarter of rebel leader Li Zicheng and then his Manchu conqueror Duoergun. During Kangxi reign it was the site for compilation of the Kangxi Dictionary, Collected Works from Past and Present and Peiwen Dictionary. Once past the Qianqingmen (Gate of Heavenly Purity) leading to the Qianqing Gong (Palace of Heavenly Purity) is the inner court which is located the Imperial family chambers previously housing thousands of women and eunuchs. To the east of Qianqing Gong is Zhaigong, which is a is a museum for bronze objects, and Ningshou Gong where Qianlong lived after his abdication and it now houses paintings and art objects. The imperial flower garden, Yuhua Yuan, with rocks, pond, bamboo, flowers, fir and cypress trees and pavilions is located at the north end of the compound behind the Kunninggong. Landscaped during the Ming Dynasty, it covers 7000 sq. m. On the Double Nine festival, the imperial family would ascend the Yujingting (Imperial Viewing Pavilion) to view and relax. To the east is the Hall of Literary Elegance (Chizaotang) where rare classical books were kept, including a present complete set of the original Selections from the Four Branches of Literature (Shiku Huiyao). Concubine ZhenFei's well is at the north-east corner of the compound near Yangxingdian (Hall of Mental Cultivation). Yangxindian (not Yangxingdian) was where the deposed last emperor, Henry Puyi, lived till driven out by the warlord Feng Yuxiang in 1924. Do not miss the Nine Dragon wall. There is a beautiful garden rock from Taihu (Tai Lake in Jiangsu). It is not enough to see the Forbidden City in one morning or afternoon as on the usual tourist itinerary. For the first timer to Beijing, such a tour is a good, quick and brief introduction. For those who want to enjoy Chinese art and beauty, the Forbidden City requires a second longer and more elaborate visit. At such a time look closely at the roofs (ten mythological animals at the Hall of Supreme Harmony) and the wall and ceiling decors, reflect on the imperial history behind each hall, understand the animals symbolic of Chinese beliefs such as the lions, the crane, tortoise and dragons, and take the time to see the art pieces and the paintings. |
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